Prototype: Hatchet Blade Cover

Second prototype and final design

   So, in the introduction to this blog I had mentioned that I would be posting all kinds of information related to prepping. Since I've done some posts on what prepping is all about, and also some information on gear and supplies, I've decided to post some info on a project I'm working on. This post will be more in-depth and considerably longer than my previous posts. I will include pictures and some basic instruction on what I've done.
   So, a bit of a rundown: The project we're working on is a hatchet blade cover. In the past I carried a hatchet in my bush pack, however I switched to carrying a machete last summer and haven't used the hatchet in a while. Machetes are great versatile and lightweight tools, but the hatchet is just much better at some jobs. I planned on going for a hike to try and track down some fatwood and decided I'd break out the ol' hatchet. I gave it a really nice sharpening and then encountered a problem; I haven't packed the hatchet in a while and it never came with any decent kind of blade guard or sheath. So I decided I needed to make one so I wouldn't destroy the other gear in my pack.
   Normally a person would make a sheath out of leather. Since I'm not a leather worker - nor do I have scrap leather kicking around my house - I decided to use what I did have. I headed out to my shed and grabbed some scrap wood. Wondering how I was going to carve a narrow curved channel into some relatively narrow wood, I thought maybe my circular saw blade had roughly the same curvature, a quick side-by-side of my hatchet to the saw blade showed it to be pretty close.

Hard to show the channel cut, this is
as close as I could get.

   First I drilled two holes through either end of the board to secure it to my work bench, then set it with wood screws. Once secure to the bench I marked out roughly the length of my blade and the overall length I wanted. To get the channel where my blade would rest I made a series of lengthwise cuts, tapering at either end, in the center (not so much) of the board. This gave me a long shallow valley ranging from halfway through the board at the peaks on either end, to about three quarters of the way through at the deepest point. To smooth out the roughness on the inside of the guard I simply used either side of the channel as a blade stop and moved the blade of the circular saw side to side through the cut. After the blade rest area was all carved out, and cleaned up as well as I could with the saw, I cut off the excess board from either side bringing my guard closer to final length.

Body and hardware ready to be assembled.
A fresh coat of varnish to help protect
the wood in the field.

   Next I needed hardware to secure the hatchet in the guard. I recently salvaged some hex key bolts and threaded knobs that would help me test this prototype. I thought that having two knobs sticking out of the side would be kind of bulky and figured it would double my chances of having it catch on things in my pack, so I opted to use a threaded insert to double as a rest for the underside of the blade. With my hatchet placed in the guard I marked where I would need to drill to have the bolts hold the top and bottom of the axe head firmly in place. I then marked another hole to be drilled on the top of the guard to make a sliding channel to allow the blade to be inserted and removed. Since I was drilling through two thin sides I used wedges in the channel to prevent blowout and started with a smaller than need bit and gradually increased the size to avoid splitting the wood. After all the wholes were drilled I carved out the remaining wood in the sliding channel and smoothed everything out with medium grit sandpaper.

The other side of the final assembly.

All varnished and hardware installed.
Ready to go on the hatchet.

   After loosely assembling the hardware in the body I inserted the axe head. Using a hex key and the friction of the threaded insert in it's hole, I tightened the bottom to a snug (not tight) fit. Making sure the underside of the axe head was resting on the threaded insert, I slid the top bolt down its channel to rest on the top of the axe head and tightened it up. Making adjustments to the lower bolt to eliminate side to side play, then filed down the sides of the extrusion from the insert to be cut off. Using a rotary tool with a cutting disk made cutting and smoothing the end of the bolt quick and easy. I reassembled everything to make sure it wasn't a fluke that it had worked then took it all apart again for a coat of protective varnish. After letting it dry overnight I reassembled everything for a field test.

Much more bulky than a leather sheath
but not bad for what I had laying around.

   I was afraid that I would catch the knob or overhang on stuff in my pack, but it actually didn't snag nearly as bad as predicted. After carrying it for a while, the first time I took the hatchet out it hadn't loosened or shifted at all, in fact it hadn't even after removing and replacing it several times during the hike. I used the hatchet quite a few times during and never found it to be irritating to remove and replace the guard.

A nice snug fit. No up and down
or side to side play.

   Considering this was only the second prototype I made, and the first of this design, I think this is a pretty solid build. There are a couple of improvements I will make on the final build (whenever I get to that): Firstly I'd like to make the closing knob lower profile, possibly a more slender wooden knob with a nut set in the center. Since this was the best hardware I had at the time it worked out surprisingly well, but if it was less protruding it would be better. Secondly, the overall size of the guard could be cut down a bit. I spent time rounding the corners and edges with a wood rasp and sandpaper, but I think there could be a little more taken off the outside front face to make it more round and slimmer. The last major issue I have with this build is that, since I did this freehand with a circular saw, the channel isn't centered or evenly cut through the whole piece. When I get a table saw I will experiment with making a more centered channel that will taper in from the back edge to the depth of the valley in the channel. Overall, I'm very happy with how this piece of gear turned out. For only a couple of hours worth of work it's already passed the test on it's first field trial. You probably noticed there were no measurements or precise instructions included here, that's because I didn't make any. I did this entirely on the fly only as a test, so in the future when I get to build the final version I will do another post complete with all the build instructions.

Smooth insertion and removal.

   I hope you've found this post to be of value to your prepping. I'm sure the post on the finished piece will be much more useful with full instruction, but I built it without having even this much information so you could easily make it. Some people may just say "Why would I do this when I can go out and buy a sheath?" To which I will answer; do that if you want, but wouldn't it be handy to know how to make one out of scrap just in case? If you do decide to make one, drop a comment in the comment section and let me know how it goes. Have any ideas on how I could make this one better? Lemme know. Made a sheath or some other accessory for your hatchet or axe? Drop a comment down below. As always, I hope you all enjoyed the post, and until next time. Be Prepared. Be Safe. Have Fun.

Knives: What makes the cut?

   In my last post we talked about EDC and the basic components that are shared almost universally. This post will delve deeper into one of them: the knife. Being a tool of almost unlimited variation, we will have a look at some of the basics and their uses.
   I've found that with most preppers we are almost always tinkering with things. Building this, fixing that, dismantling the other thing. There's wood to be carved out or boxes to be opened. Many of us also spend time in the outdoors: fishing, hunting, camping, etc. Though there are specific tools for most of these jobs a trusty knife can easily be your go to for all of them and save you from carrying a tool box everywhere.
   However, before you just go out and buy a random knife thinking you can use it for everything, you need to know what your expectations for the tool are. Not all knives are good for all jobs. Due to my career and pastimes I own a lot of knives, but you won't see me carrying a 10" Henckel French knife with me when I go hunting. Sure it cuts things, but it's not built for the job.
   So the first question you have to ask yourself is "why am I carrying a knife, what will I use it for?" Opening boxes? Carving wood? Skinning animals? Self defense (not a legal reason to carry a knife in Canada, just so you know)? Once you know what the knife will be doing then you can start shopping around.
   I said shopping, I didn't say buy one yet. There are more things to consider. Blade and overall length are important. For most EDC purposes I find you won't need anything over four inches in blade length. Another consideration is weight. If you're going to be carrying a few items on you every day you're not going to want each of them to be too heavy, it adds up quicker than you think. The build quality of your potential knife is of great importance. A good quality blade steel means you won't have to devote as much time to maintaining your edge, and a good quality handle means your knife won't break from regular use.
   We're getting closer but there are still some things we must consider, and they are rolled in to deciding on a fixed blade or folding blade. First off is how heavy is your expected daily workload. If you will be cutting open boxes or slicing through softer material, a folding knife can handle that no problem. If you plan on using it to baton through wood or in some other heavy or forceful manner, a fixed blade is better suited. Not saying that the two can't be interchanged, because there are some very well suited knives for these jobs in both categories, but as a starting point a folding blade is better for light work and a fixed blade is better for heavier work. Next we should consider the profile or size of the knife. If you're carrying a knife in public it's a good idea to keep it out of sight, you will get some uneasy looks or possibly a visit from the police if people see it on you (it's not illegal to carry as long as you have a good reason for having it. Self defense is not a good reason.) Having a compact system that comfortably fits in your pocket is ideal. Having a blade that folds into the handle makes low profile carrying much easier.
   Now that you know what your knife will be doing and the qualities to look for to get it done you can start shopping for styles that suit you personally. Don't think you only need one knife either, as with most of prepping your system is always evolving. Some people carry a couple of knives to cover the whole range of situations they may encounter, and others may rotate knives in and out of their EDC. You just have to keep in mind what you need to do with the knife and match that to the specifications of the construction.
   I hope you've found this a helpful introduction to EDC knives, I will do more in-depth posts on specific styles and products in the future, this is just to get you thinking on the right track of what to be prepared with. If you have any questions or comments about EDC knives please feel free to post them in the comments. Thanks so much for reading, and as always. Be Prepared. Be Safe. Have Fun.

EDC: What's in your pocket?

   A term you will hear on a regular basis when around preppers is "EDC", which stands for "everyday carry". EDC, as the name suggests, is a collection of items that you have on you at all times. Generally these items are carried to make ones life easier when dealing with regularly occurring situations, or items that will be immediately useful in the event of an emergency.
   The most common items you will find shared among preppers are a knife of some sort, flashlight, keys to all important locks (house, car, firearms locker, etc.), cash, and communication device (generally a cellphone). Other items that are included are normally occupation and situation specific.
   I'll use myself as a case study for EDC. Since I commute mostly by city transit and I spend a large majority of my day and week away from my home, my EDC is a little bit more hefty than most. On my person my gear is pretty standard: wallet, narrow blade folding knife, keys, Zippo lighter, and cellphone. I also carry an additional Bic lighter in all my coats (you can never have too many ways to start a fire). Where my gear starts to get more in-depth is in my day pack.
   If you're like me and sport a backpack everywhere you go, I can't stress the importance of comfort. I've used numerous different packs over the years, and my current kits use three different bags (I'll talk about the other two in different posts). As I've evolved through my outdoors and prepping activities I've come to fully understand and appreciate the comfort factors of a pack. When you start carrying around a medium to heavy load for several hours a day, most days of the week, in a backpack that's not designed for comfort you will truly start to hate being prepared.
   My current EDC pack, the bag I take everywhere, is the SOG Ninja Daypack in coyote tan. With a large main pocket and multiple smaller pockets and compartments it's great for keeping all my gear organized. It also has padded straps with sternum strap and a padded back. The pockets are arranged so that even the heaviest loads are comfortably distributed through the shoulder straps.

Here's a quick rundown of what my EDC pack contains:

Light/Warmth/Fire

• Flashlights: I carry a minimum of two flashlights in my pack at all times.
• Matches: A container with waterproof matches and a striking strip is a must.
• Lighters: Like I said earlier, you can never have too many ways to start a fire. I usually have between three and four Bic lighters in my bag at all times.
• Hand/Foot Warmers: This item is a rotating seasonal item. I keep a set in my pack from late fall to early spring.
• Emergency Blanket: Sometimes called a "space blanket" or "survival blanket" is a sheet of Mylar which is a very lightweight and insulating sheet for conserving body heat in an emergency.
• Clothing: Rotating seasonal items such as heavy toques, gloves, rain coat, extra socks, etc. Layering clothing is important, having the appropriate layers packed is essential.
• Poncho: Having a backup poncho is good to have. If you already have a rain coat with you it can be used as a rain cover for your bag.

Tools

• Knives: A good quality folding knife is within short reach in my bag. I sometimes also carry a fixed blade, but that normally lives in my wilderness kit.
• Multi-tool: Keeping a multi-tool (Leatherman as most people know them) in your kit is invaluable. having pliers and screwdrivers without carrying a toolbox is great.
• Screwdrivers: I keep a really handy precision screwdriver set in my bag. The drivers are interchangeable, but the whole set is only the size of a thick pen.
• Crazy Glue: You'd be crazy not to have a few tubes of this with you. I can't even count the amount of things I've fixed with it.
• Duct Tape: Much like crazy glue, it's invaluable. It also makes a decent fire starter.
• Glasses Repair Kit: If you wear glasses this is a great, small item you can throw in your pack.
• Cordage: I keep a few feet of safety yellow cord in my bag. Who knows when you may need to tie something back together, or replace a broken shoelace.
• Sewing Kit: Tear the ass out of your pants? That's an embarrassing trip home if you can't patch them up.
• Sharpening Stone: I keep a fine stone in my kit for any emergency knife maintenance.

Health/Hygiene

• First Aid Kit: So important. I wont go in to detail about my kits here, but we will cover it in later posts.
• Med-Kit: I keep my medications separate from, but together with, my first aid kit. It makes inventorying and resupplying a lot easier.
• Toiletries Kit: Since I'm not at home much I keep a small toiletries kit in my bag with small amount of all the essentials.

Power/Technology

• Batteries: If you have something that runs off batteries, always carry a spare set.
• Portable Charger: I carry a very slim, lightweight, portable charger that can give my phone a full charge plus a little extra power left over.
• USB Cord & Charging Block: Not only can I charge my phone from a wall outlet, I can use the USB cord with the portable charger or to plug in to a computer.
• Memory Devices: Having a USB stick and a MicroSD card with SD card adapter is useful if you need to share files with people.
• Two-way Radio: A good set of two way radios is a great addition to your pack. It allows communication when cellphones don't work, and you can also monitor weather and emergency channels.

Miscellaneous

• Water Bottle: Always have some drinking water, it can save you a ton of hassle.
• Glasses: Breaking a pair of glasses when you're nowhere near a spare is incredibly inconvenient. I always keep a backup pair in my pack.
• Notepad/Pens: Something to write on, and with, is great when you need to take quick notes or the likes.
• Cards: A deck of playing cards is a fantastic morale booster when you're stuck somewhere for long periods of time. Not an essential item, but I find it very useful.

   This is a quick rundown of my everyday carry. If you're starting out with prepping please don't take this as scripture, it's only meant as an example of what we do and what you should consider carrying. This works for me, but you will have to figure out the best gear for yourself. It takes a lot of trial and error to develop a pack, and mine is always evolving, so this may be updated in the future. I hope you find this a usable reference material and a good insight into the beginnings or prepping.

   As always, thanks for reading, and until next time. Be Prepared. Be Safe. Have Fun.